When I decided to go to asia to visit my sisters, we decided to hit a few big name spots. If I’m going half way around the world, I don’t want to sit around and drink tea. I want to go see and do stuff! Have a real adventure. Well, I got a little more than I bargained for. Here is one of my 5 days in the Middle Kingdom
My sister, Ashley, really wanted to climb Mount Huashan, it was the only reason she wanted to go to main land china. So Xian was put on our hit list. Coincidentally, the Terracotta warriors were in the same town (putting it on my hit list). For those of you who don’t know, Mount Huashan is publicized as the most dangerous mountain climb in china. There are some bravely taken photographs online. You can either climb it or take a lift to the top (there’s a tea house up there!!). We decided that we could climb up, stop in for a cup of tea and well earned souveniers, then take the lift back down to the bottom.
We tried to book an overnight sleeper train from Beijing to Xian, but they were really expensive. Some of Ashely’s friends (who speak mandarin) were with us when we were booking the train tickets. I thank God that they were because it got complicated really fast. They were such a blessing! They called the hotel we had booked, and wrote notes for us to give to the taxi drivers (which included a price so that we wouldn’t get overcharged). I learned on that trip that notes are a very good thing when you don’t speak the native language. Even though there is an impressively high rate of english speakers in China. Anyways, we ended up taking the fast train, which was still expensive but not as much. On the fast train it took us about 5 hrs to get there. It was dark bye the time we got there and got off the train. Xian is a beautiful city. Even on a misty dark night. My lungs burned for a few hours from the polution in the air. But it is a beautiful city.
Our taxi driver had a hard time finding our hotel. It was amusing to see the taxi drivers use smart phones to get around the city. It was just as amusing watching the taxi driver get his directions confused while using a smart phone. But we got there. It was the best hotel we stayed at in china. The beds were so comfortable! And the desk clerk spoke a wee bit of english. But we mostly used an online translator to comunicate with him. Ashley spent about an hour to two hours every night and morning using the online translator to smooth out/locate our plans.
Due to jet lag, train lag and tourist activities, we slept in a bit. It felt amazing. There’s nothing quite like a soft bed and fluffy blankets as when you’re exhuasted. When we woke up the next morning; it was raining. It rained all day long. As much as my sisters and I love rain, it was obviously not mountain climbing weather. I mean, if one of us were to slip off the mountain, recovering the body might take a bit longer than my visa allowed. So, we rearranged our schedule and opted to use this day to go see the “Legen (wait for it) Dary!” Terracotta Warriors.
But first things first! Breakfast. You just can’t skip breakfast and enjoy the rest of the day. In our search for a place to eat, we realized that we were going to need umbrellas. And we were in luck! An umbrella store was the first store we came across. We went for the biggest ones they had. The bigger the umbrella, the dryer you stay. Our color wheel parasols made for cute pics. I personally felt like Mary Poppins carrying around an umbrella like that. And when it wasn’t raining, they made for good walking sticks.
After breakfast we got directions and the rain really started pooring. We waited at the bus stop for “bus K” for quite a while before we realized there was no “K bus”. Now what? Its not like we could just tap someone’s shoulder and say “hey! how do you get to this train station?”. At least that was my line of thinking. Ashley and Nia had been over there a bit longer and just started asking people “Do you speak english”. It was embarrasing. But in not too long someone gave us a “yes” along with a list of buses that would take us there. I was impressed by the number of people that aproached us and asked us in english if we needed help. Xian may not be a tourist friendly place, but we ran into alot of very nice people there. I say that its not a tourist friendly place because there aren’t signs in english (like Beijing), the taxi’s won’t pick you up, transportation is more limited, and there are fewer people that speak english. But we got to the train station, and found the line of buses that go to the Terracotta Warriors. There was even another american on the bus. She didn’t speak mandarin either.
I had no idea what to expect. I had only seen one small picture of the warriors. I had no idea that there are 3 large escavation pits, one for the emperor, one for the high ranking officers, and then the really big one with all the soldiers (estemated to be over 8,000 in number). And that they are still escavating! They have built buildings around the pits, which was great because it was a break from the rain. Parts of the buildings were set up like museums. Artifacts and individual soldiers behind glass cases with little informative plaques (English and Mandarin). There was a bronze scupture of horses pulling a charriot and if my memory serves me right, it was made up of about 3,000 pieces. There were real bronze horse bits that looked more like animal torture devices. Pottery, weapons, bronze art and tools, armour, pictures of the early escavation. It was alot to take in.
I learned that the Terracotta warriors were commisioned by the first Chinese emperor to unite all of China. He was a cruel emperor, which earned him alot of enemies. Oh, and he wanted to be immortal, so he drank a concoction that included mercury. Yes, he was literally crazy. If he wasn’t already, the mercury medicine ensured that. He commisioned the Terracotta army to be built so that he would have protection from his enemies in the afterlife. There was also a picture of an escavation site with an article speaking about how he burried all of his wives and concubines with him. If memory serves me right (its been a year so some details are blurry), the article said they were burried alive. So was his horse. It took me off guard, so I read it again. This isn’t ancient Egypt, but the emperor WAS crazy and cruel. The story was so “fantastic” that it was hard to believe, as well as hard to forget. This article was on a big lit board next to a section of the escavation that looked like it had been either built around, or well replicated. The portion of the escavation was supposed to be that of a woman that had been burried with a horse. It was a stone woman, but the horse had been real, so there was only a skeleton lying neatly in the compacted dirt. I couldn’t really get a good picture, they kept the room dark with low lighting.
As I said, there are 3 excavation pits. They really are “pits”. There is railing along the edges of the pits and that is were we, the tourists, walk and observe. I used to be in a bible study with a former Belieze ambassador. When he went to Xian China for political stuff, officials took them down to walk among the warriors. That would have been so cool. They also had a tour guide and translator, even better. But my sisters and I were common tourists so we just looked down on the army. The first two pits had alot of damage to them. Not long after the emperor died, some of his very much alive “haters” broke in and destoryed large portions of the first two burial sites. I don’t remember there being any damage in the third pit that didn’t look age related. The third pit is still under construction. And because the pits are enclosed in buildings, the “archeologists” were working while we were there. The rain wasn’t a problem for them. There were people cleaning parts, putting parts back together. Other people digging, moving bags of dirt, making drawings of partialially uncovered warriors and one or two inviduals pointing fingers. The wooden beams of the structures that covered the warriors were still in tact. A few warriors still had fragments of their original red and blue paint on them. There were rows and rows of renovated warriors standing in rank, ready to be put back were they were taken from. The third pit was huge. I had figured out that there were alot of statues in the third pit. But the majority of 8,000 is alot. And like I said, they’re not even done escavating it! My history book chose a “dud” picture to represent all of this.
We took alot of fun pictures that day. The walk from the pits back to the bus station was long but did have some hot spots for tourism. We bought what looked like the chinese version of a burrito, but it wasn’t a burrito or an indian taco. It was good though. I tried to make smart decisions on what kind of souveniers to take back for my family. You had to barter with most of these people. Bartering is alot of fun when you’re in a spunky mood. Even more so when the other person gets mad and starts yelling. Just don’t laugh at them when they do get mad, shuts down buisness (fyi, I didn’t do that but my sister did). I couldn’t carry too much because we had back-packed to Xian and most of my back pack space was taken up by clothes and hygene stuff. I bought a few warrior miniaures and some of the blackest, most masculine colored jade that I could find for my brothers. The pale green stuff may be the better quality, but I can’t see either of my brothers wearing it. At least not in small town Oklahoma.
Our returning bus had a tv in it. Of course they were playing the 3rd Mummy movie, which I haven’t seen. Well, I have seen some parts of it now, but they were all in mandarin so it doesn’t really count. These buses were alot like the buses in Paraguay, picking up pasengers going shorter distances, and street vendors. And just like in Paraguay, an older woman with a very small girl got on. It was obvious that the little girl was exhausted and unacostomed to riding on the bus. We offered our seats, its not hard to comunicate “you can have my seat” by standing up, moving aside and pointing. I might remember the story wrong. But the way I remember it, the woman didn’t accept the offer but she did let the little girl sit on our laps. The poor thing passed out. I remember being in the same situation when I was little, just a different country with a different destination.
When we arrived back in Xian, we ran into the same problem we had earlier that day. The taxi’s wouldn’t take us. Someone told us it was because they were supposed to be able to speak english, but they couldn’t and it was embarassing for them. I don’t know, it sounded alot more like they were making fun of us. We got back to the hotel by bus. The hotel moved us to a different room. The rooms were interesting, like little modular cubes. The shower and toilet were really small and separated from the bedroom by a frosted glass “wall”. After I took a shower I remembered one of the downsides of living in rainy places. Everything gets wet and its really hard to get you feet dry.
Before going to bed, Nia and I discussed “tomorrow”. Ashley would want to go climb Mount Huashan. That was the sole reason she wanted to go to china and she wouldn’t back down without a fight. Back at home, we climbed el Monte Yvytyrysu (pardon me if I misspelled that) a couple days after a rain and it wasn’t pretty. Climbing China’s most dangerous hike after an all-day rain sounded like suicide. Besides, our train back to Beijing left “tomorrow”, and the bus coming back from the mountain would be arriving in Xian after our train had left. I went down and had my first conversation with the desk clerk (it took an hour). He strongly advised against climbing the mountain. We often say that my sister would be dead if it wasn’t for the people around her. And we say it in a joking manner, but in this case it wasn’t a joke. At least Nia and I were on the same page. But convincing Ashley would have to wait until “tomorrow”.
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